Ten years ago, body positivity seemed like a victory over age-old beauty standards. Curvy models confidently walked the catwalks, glossy covers were full of a variety of shapes, and social networks shouted: “Love yourself as you are.” But today, the fashion industry seems to be returning to the old paradigm. And this may be due not only to aesthetics — but also to the popularity of the drug Ozempic.
From "donuts" to podiums
Body positivity has its origins in the 1960s, but the real breakthrough came in the 2010s. Ashley Graham became the first plus-size model to appear in Sports Illustrated, and Kim Kardashian set the trend for new ideals with her "unreal" shapes.
Hundreds of women have stopped being ashamed of their hips and bellies, brands like Savage x Fenty have made inclusivity part of their DNA, and Victoria's Secret, which only yesterday glorified the anorexic standard, is suddenly talking about body positivity. On the wave of this movement, the careers of models like Felicity Hayward and Enrique were born.
Fashion has changed course
However, inclusivity has begun to disappear from the catwalks in the 2020s. At the last Paris Fashion Week, out of 8,800 looks, only 0.8% were represented by plus-size models.
At the same time, Ozempic, a diabetes drug that suppresses appetite, has become popular. It is actively promoted by celebrities, including Elon Musk. The industry openly says that the drug's popularity has caused a wave of new thinness.
"Ozempic became a hit among celebrities, and it changed the standards of beauty," says model Moya. "Today, models lose weight not with diets, but with injections.".
Vogue editor Chioma Nnadi admitted: "We should be concerned about the return of the skinny trend. And Ozempic clearly played a role in this."
Is thinness the norm again?
In Paris, where fashion often sets global trends, the situation is clear. “Paris glorifies elitism, and elitism is thinness,” notes photographer Nan Li.
Oversized models on the runway remain the exception. “They’re more of a show stopper, to make the brand look progressive,” adds casting director Sean Bayne.
Even brands that used to actively promote body positivity are now reducing the number of models with non-standard figures. This is confirmed by Enrique's model: "If before we were invited regularly, now there is a maximum of one in four thin models.".
What influences the choice?
The industry is justified: everything is determined by demand. “Every fashion house shows what they think the consumer wants to see,” says Daniel Mitchell-Jones of the agency Chapter Management .
French collector Gautier Borsarello adds: "Nobody forces you to do anything. It all depends on the culture and education of the buyer.".
But body positivity won't disappear completely. Fashion is cyclical, experts say. The pendulum will swing again and again — and perhaps next time, it will swing toward real diversity, not just commercial expediency.
